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Wednesday 21 August 2013

GORGA BATAK




The unique philosophy and culture of the Bataks places great importance on customs and culture inherited from ancestors. A lot of culture stemming from primitive times continues to live on, somewhat modified to suit modern times.
The gorga, is an ancient Batak art, sculptures featuring three specific natural colours. Gorga are often seen on the walls of traditional houses. Previously, gorga were only made for the houses of important members of society. This is due to the belief that the gorga wasn't just decorative, but mirrored the Batak way of life. A shaman or datu would give the instructions for making the sculpture. Datu were seen as respected members of society due to their role in helping others. Datu were always involved in rituals and art, including in the process of making gorga. The different Batak cultural arts are all connected.






There is a legend that explains how the Batak learnt the art of making the mysterious gorga:
Once upon a time, there was a respected and well-known datu. His name was Gambut Nabolon. He had a wife called Siboru Jongjong Anian Siboru Tibal Tudoson (Don't be surprised by the length of the name; Batak names contain important meanings and imply status). They were happy enough, and they were full of hope that their child would be as skilled as its father. Until one day, they were blessed with a child. Surprisingly, Siboru Jongjong Anian Siboru Tibal Tudoson gave birth to three children at once. The father called them Pustaha Anggir, Lada, and Napuran. They were hoped to become shaman with a knowledge of craftsmanship when they reached adulthood.
Time passed. The mother gave birth a second time. This time she gave birth to twins. The twins were named Sirat and Uhir. They too were hoped to have skills of craftsmanship, in making thread, weaving and making traditional Batak cloths (ulos). Soon after, the mother gave birth again, this time one boy and one girl. They were named Si Aji Donda Hatahutan and Siboru Sopak Nauasan or Siboru Sopak Panaluan. The datu was very happy, because he loved having a large family.
An old Batak saying is anak do hamoraon, meaning “lots of children, lots of luck”.
There is a Batak idiom which shows the importance of big families in Batak culture:
      Laklak ni sikkoru, nagantung di tiang pintu,
      Maranak sampulu tolu, marboru sampulu pitu.
The meaning is something like, "Sikkoru wood over the door, 13 girls, 17 boys".
To keep the story short, the datu's children soon grew up. The datu realised that it wasn't easy teaching his children to become as he had wished for. The oldest son, Aji Donda Hatahutan was the one who was most able to understand the art of shamanism and craftsmanship. His youngest daughter became an expert in making ulos. Only after the youngest had become an great craftswoman, the others followed. 
The children always lived full of ambition to create. One day, when Siboru Sopak Nauasan was busy embroidering, the three threads fell to the floor in disarray. Aji Donda Hatahutan was hypnotised by the sight. Suddenly he took a sharp knife and begun engraving the doors and walls of the house. The parents and siblings were shocked, believing that Aji Donda Hatahutan was possessed by a spirit. They decided to prepare a mat made from pandan leaves, a jug filled with drinking water with tamarind, incense and coal in order to exorcise the spirit. Aji Donda Hatahutan was made to sit on the mat. The father prayed to Debata Mulajadi Nabolon (the Batak name for God).



They became even more confused because at that point Aji Donda Hatahutan became truly possessed. The spirit in his body told the father to collect wood for building a traditional Batak house or Ruma Bolon. Then Aji Donda Hatahutan, still possessed by the spirit, began to engrave the entire house. The engravings, later to be known as gorga, were so beautiful that the house was called Ruma Gorga (gorga house). The family was very proud of his creation. Since that time some Batak youths began to study become craftsmen (pande) who produced unique and new creations. A pande always passes on the skill to his descendants.
There are a number of famous Batak gorgas made by Batak artists such as gorga pea, silunduni pahu, ipon-ipon, hoda-hoda, adop-adop, sitompi, simataniari, desa naualu, bindu natonga, singa-singa, boras pati, jaga dompak, jorngom-jorngom, jenggar, manuk-manuk, patia raja, porhis marodor, ulu paung and simarogung-ogung. Gorga in traditional Batak houses are believed to ward off evil spirits. Each kind of gorga has a special name and meaning. Gorgas are crafted according to the character of the house owner. Gorgas can symbolise bravery, harmony, riches, knowledge, fertility, beauty, respect, equality, and so on.
The beautiful curves of the gorga require patience and care. The gorga craftsmen live a simple life, because their aim in life is art, not riches. Most of the best gorga artists come from Samosir in Lake Toba and North Tapanuli. One friend of mine has even made gorga in Jakarta. In Siborongborong, one can find the Seni Era Baru workshop which belongs to Oppung (Grandfather) Simatupang. Generally, Balige art is more progressive than in other areas of North Sumatera.



The gorga have indeed involved. Previously, they were always engraved in a specific kind of wood, but now the craftsmen are known to engrave cement or stone. Some artists just paint the motive without engraving it first. This type is known as gorga dais. Nowadays, gorga are used extensively as decoration in government buildings, graves, hotels, modern houses, restaurants and are sold as souvenirs.
"Even though artists have modernised the gorga, the cultural and spiritual meaning of the gorga is still valid," comments a gorga artist acquaintance. Now... would you like to know more about gorga or purchase one or even explore the spiritual values behind them? Then you should pay these craftsmen a visit. 

Tuesday 20 August 2013

Mangokkal holi



When traveling around in Batak land,one cannot avoid notice all the fancy and impressive graves. Some areas almost look like huge graveyards. The batak area ancestor worshiper and the graves are today the most significant sign of the religious background of the bataks and their beliefs which still live on despite christening. Building monuments is a way of showing success, the unity of the clan and to confirm ones roots.





When a man died he was kept above ground for approximately a week before burial. This practice was however forbidden by the dutch authorities. Several years after the first burial,the body was exhumed and given a nicer place for the final rest. This event is called mangokkal holi and  his one of most important batak ceremonies. It is only used for men. Mangokkal holi washowever  forbidden by the curch,but later they had to retract in order not to loose to many members. Instead the curch tried to purifybthe ceremony from “heathen elements”. Still today the protestan curch often punishes part-takers in traditional ceremonies with temporarynexpulsion.



Before the manokkal holi feast the descendants of the ancestor build a new grave. Normally they have saved mony for some time or one of the more successful descendants pays for a large part of it. At the event itself the bones of ancestor are dug up,washed,and placed in a small container. In the good old days tuak was poured over the bones and spirits evoked. Todsy the ceremonies is led by a curch-leader. The container is then moved to its new home. The graves is normally located away from the village,far from human dirt and feces and with a nice view. An event like  this can take several days and involve the slaughter  of several buffalos,depending on the financial resources. A simple exhumation consist of only prayers,with or without gondang music. 


Gondang music is only used in traditional ceremonie. It is played for traditional dancing and to call the spirits of the ancestor. A full orchestra has 8 members.three are five drums of equal size,a slightly bigger drum,akind of clarinet (sarune),four gongs,each with a different sound,a percussion instrument, and a bamboo xylophonewith 5 or 7 bar. Arriving guests dance tor-tor take part in the dancing, however not according to the church though. Eventually the buffalo is slaughtered and its meat and other food are devided amongst the family  members and guests,according to a stritch traditional ranking system. The head is given to the most important family member the whole event has a strong feeling of the supernatural.








Sunday 18 August 2013

"danau toba" the great lake




The world famous crater lake of danau toba is the third biggest tourist destination of indonesia.the island in the huge lake,pulau samosir,atracts many tourist. Lake toba is the largest lake in southeast asia,once created by an enormous eruption less than 100.000 years ago. The eruption was approximately 8000 times more powerful than the eruption of Mount St.Helen in 1981.The lake covers approximately 1265 square km excluding Samosir and is 90 km long. The depth is in on average 450 m and up to 900 min some place. The lake is situated at an altitude of 906 m above sea level. The steep coastline interspersed with small valleys creates fantastic scenery and isolated areas. The deepest end and the highest mountains are at it's northeastern end. The Dutchman H.N.van der Tuuk was the first European who saw and reported about the lake.in 1847.



There are of course legends how Lake Toba was formed. Once upon a time there was a man living in the area of the present day Danau Toba. No one knew when or from where he came. He lived in a simple hut in a farming area. He had a garden and did some fishing. One day he caught a big fish in his trap. It was biggest catch ever in his life. Back home the fish turned into beautiful princess decorated with jewels. He fell in love with her and proposed to her. Sha nodded romantically,however the princes had one condition. The man had promise never to tell anyone thet she had been a fish. If he would there would be disaster. They married  and got a daughter and lived happily. The daughter always brought lunch to her father out in the fields. The girl was however very greedy and one day she ate all her father"s lunch. Her father got angry and scolded " you dammed daughter of a fish!". The princes started to cry when she heard what her husband had said. she told her daughter to go to the hills, as there would be       disaster. When the daughter had left for safety the princes prayed. Soon there was an earthquake,rain started to fall and springs appeared everywhere. The whole area got flooded and became Lake Toba. The princes turned into a fish again and her father became the island of samosir.








The traditional Batak canoe, The Solu was 10-15 m long. All had the same width. The canoes of the chief were decorated with carvings. The captain the chief, sat in front and gave orders. The solu  had it's own spirit and when a new canoe was built offerings were made for both the canoe spirit and to Boru saniang Naga,The goddes of the water. Bataks feared her as disasters could easily happen when she was angry

BATAK CULTURE I





It is important for a Batak to get a son. It is the sons who worship the forefathers. A children woman could hardly show herself in public. It was considered a big shame. If  a man didn’t get a son, he would take another wife. The women were the hardest workers, and still are, amongst the bataks. The Batak culture was influenced by Indian culture in the 2nd or 3rd century AD. They borrowed for example writing,elements of religion ,arts, and crafts.Ancestors,plants,animals,and other objects possessed spirits. Communication with these spirits went trough a religious leader. A Batak belived that “someone” owned all land and water. Before starting cultivation a man used to ask for permission by praying. If the planted in the forest with the consent  of the higher power his plants would not be disturbed,for example, by wild boars. Trees were related to the people and permission was needed to cut then down. When Europeans came they dismissed this as animism. Yet another example on how positive traditional values is lost because of arrogance. Three rooster together ,one white,one red,and one black are a symbol of Batak culture. Black stands for leadership,red for knowled,and white for holiness. These three colors are always used in traditional woodcarvings (gorga). Weaving (ulos) and personal accessories. The rooster is often used as an offering and represents a friend that reminds us about time.




The marga (clan) is used by all batak people and plays a very important role. For the Batak Toba it is of extra importance. The rules are still in use and set it’s  very special flavor on the daily life of the batak people. A person cannot marry within this clan. In the old days offenders against the rule were sentenced to death. Between and within clans are special relationship. A hula-hula relation is the relation of a man to the clan of his wife. Any member of that clan is considered and older brother and respect must be shown and given. The Boru relationship is the relation of a man to the clan that marries his sister. Members of that clan must show shown respect to the husnand’s clan. Dongan Tubu relation is between members of the same clan. When a man gets married his family pays for the bridge,who then becomes a member of her husbands clan.




 A village (Huta) has normaly three clans (marga) represented. Through marriages one clan achieve all three different types of relationships with other clans. Only the male line is counted. The governmental  system of the bataks a Bius was a unity consisting of several huta.A huta is a village.A typical Bataks a bius village is often located on a hilltop and is very small, but several villages normally form a cluster of villages. A village consists of two rows of houses along an open long square. On one side area the living quarters and on the opposite side area rice barns. The rice barns,sopo has often disappeared now. A clay wall of bamboo,thorns and stones encircled the village,giving nprotectionif attacked. Trees and vegetables were planted in the back of the houses. Horja bius was the most important village feast. If would give good harvest,happinest and health. It took seven days to prepare before the proper and  celebration started. A buffalo was tied to a post and after gondang music and dancing it was slaughtered. Yhe dutch government banned these horja bius event in 1916, as the celebrations often led to communal quarrels and the killing of the buffalo was cruel. The ban was lifted in 1938



Friday 12 July 2013

samosir island II


Samosir is a popular tourist destination due to its exotic history and the vistas it offers. The tourist resorts are concentrated in the Tuktuk area. The island is the centre of the Batak culture and many of the Toba Batak traditional houses (rumah adat) remain on the island. Most of the tourist accommodations are concentrated in the small town of Tuktuk, which is located a one-hour ferry ride across the lake from the town of Parapat. A car ferry leaves the mainland from Ajibata and lands in the small town of Tomok, about a 10 minute drive from Tuk Tuk. There are also other passenger ferries and individual hotels may also have ferries available.

Samosir Island I



Samosir is a small island in the middle of the lake and the lake it's self is in the middle of  the Northern Sumatra, one of the biggest island in the world and a part of Indonesian Archipelago. The island is very unique that created by the super volcanic eruption of mount Toba around 74.000 years ago. The volcanic eruption created the lake as known as Lake Toba and the nature formed the island in the middle of the lake, which is known as Samosir Island. The lake it's self sized around 100 kilometers in length and 30 kilometers in width and the island sized as 630 square kilometers. After the last eruption, it remains one active volcano that named as Pusuk Buhit. The Pusuk Buhit (top of hills) produces hot spring which is popular as tourism destination in this island, since the peoples believe that the hot spring can heal some diseases such as rheumatism, cold, muscle fatigue and skin diseases. This hot spring water is the truly SPA (Salus Par Aqum means healed by the water). Aek Rangat is the name of the village which is very potential for SPA investment destination.

There are still many venues of point view that have own beauty however most of them are still virgin or not managed well as tourism destination but they are awaiting for touching to be the tourism development area.