When traveling around in Batak land,one cannot avoid notice
all the fancy and impressive graves. Some areas almost look like huge
graveyards. The batak area ancestor worshiper and the graves are today the most
significant sign of the religious background of the bataks and their beliefs
which still live on despite christening. Building monuments is a way of showing
success, the unity of the clan and to confirm ones roots.
When a man died he was kept above ground for approximately a
week before burial. This practice was however forbidden by the dutch
authorities. Several years after the first burial,the body was exhumed and
given a nicer place for the final rest. This event is called mangokkal holi and his one of most important batak ceremonies.
It is only used for men. Mangokkal holi washowever forbidden by the curch,but later they had to
retract in order not to loose to many members. Instead the curch tried to
purifybthe ceremony from “heathen elements”. Still today the protestan curch
often punishes part-takers in traditional ceremonies with temporarynexpulsion.
Before the manokkal holi feast the descendants of the
ancestor build a new grave. Normally they have saved mony for some time or one
of the more successful descendants pays for a large part of it. At the event
itself the bones of ancestor are dug up,washed,and placed in a small container.
In the good old days tuak was poured over the bones and spirits evoked. Todsy
the ceremonies is led by a curch-leader. The container is then moved to its new
home. The graves is normally located away from the village,far from human dirt
and feces and with a nice view. An event like
this can take several days and involve the slaughter of several buffalos,depending on the
financial resources. A simple exhumation consist of only prayers,with or
without gondang music.
Gondang music
is only used in traditional ceremonie. It is played for traditional dancing and
to call the spirits of the ancestor. A full orchestra has 8 members.three are
five drums of equal size,a slightly bigger drum,akind of clarinet (sarune),four gongs,each with a
different sound,a percussion instrument, and a bamboo xylophonewith 5 or 7 bar.
Arriving guests dance tor-tor take
part in the dancing, however not according to the church though. Eventually the
buffalo is slaughtered and its meat and other food are devided amongst the
family members and guests,according to a
stritch traditional ranking system. The head is given to the most important
family member the whole event has a strong feeling of the supernatural.
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